Dovedale to Milldale
Christmas done. Check. New year done. Check. Accidental long new year walk done. Check. Time to relax….. ummm, yeah, about that.
After a little back and forth over dates, we finally get a chance to go for a stroll with some of our favourite folk. So we get up early, assess the weather, then pack the boots and Wilbur into the car once more and set off for Derbyshire.
As we approach Burton our coffee is running low and Eliot Mae is asking for a pee break already, seriously.
Perfect timing though to meet our walking buddies for the day Joe and Sam, otherwise known as @beardedoutdoors (www.beardedoutdoors.com). You should check out their adventures as they are super awesome and creative people.
Beards bundled into cars, we are finally bound for the hills.
Derbyshire is one of my favourite parts of the world. With it’s vast undulating landscape, ancient glacial passes and wild waters, something here has always felt like the solid longings of home.
Pulling into the car park, this always popular spot is already busy with walkers and dogs alike. You have to pay to park on the main carpark (£3) and to use the bathrooms (20p). Not extortionate but worth remembering to bring some change so you don’t end up having to scrabble around under seats trying to find your fee. The facilities are clean but quite tight so leave bags outside if you can
The sky is starting too clear and we know we are in for a pretty dry day. Never the less, on go the water proofs, you can’t be too careful in the ever changing valley. Im struggling a little with my knees and hips today and stupidly forgot to bring my sticks. Thankfully Sam was kind enough to let me borrow hers, some days i'm sure i’d forget my head if it wasn’t attached. But i'm sure a headless jess is the last thing anyone needs stumbling up a hill after them.
Starting our walk crossing over the bridge we follow the path ahead, around and up Thorpe Cloud, Wilbur bounding ahead decisively sniffing the way. He hasn’t been here since he was a youngster but i'm convinced he can remember all the tracks and trails that he’s ever walked. The hill isn’t the easiest way to warm up but the views are well worth the effort. The skies are still grey and heavy, the dull light reflecting off the grey stone reminding you that the trail will be slippery under foot. It was.
Descending back into the valley floor the river Dove is still swollen and fast from the recent rains, this don’t however deter Chaos hound from getting his paws wet as we pass the shallow section neat the stepping stones and through the gateway onto the main track to Milldale. Little does he know that he’s going to get much wetter later!
The next obstacle are some pretty steep and slippery slate steps, at the top you are met by fantastic views down to the river and great open area for picnics, but we are only at the beginning of our journey so the snacks will have to wait for now. What goes up must come down, back at river level we enjoy a good chin wag and catch up while being hugged close by the towering rock walls and precariously clinging trees. Moving further along, the path morphs into well maintained boardwalks, hugging the rock face while over hanging the river. Wilbur isn’t too keen on them and to be honest, due to my naturally clumsy nature neither am i but they are a great solution to get around what would be a otherwise tricky navigation.
At the far end of the boards there Is a small natural cave with shallow, crystal clear water. A fantastic spot to hide from following friends and amusing young humans. There are some fantastic little spots for hiding, climbing and exploring if you’re happy to go just a few steps off the track, just be prepared to get your feet wet, we certainly did.
We are making great time, Eliot Mae is loving having a couple more sets of ears to bend and so far, no rain. As we approach the bridge that crosses us into Milldale we make the call to stop for lunch in the village. As its January the little shop is unfortunately closed but we have come prepared, with flasks of soup, energy bars and hot Vimpto. Its always worth carrying the extra weight on the route out as Eliot has hollow legs and the growling dinosaur in her belly that needs to be sated.
So we sat down with the ducks in the lovely little picnic area close to the bridge and handily located toilets. The ducks are typical of most wild fowl you find in high traffic areas, brave and greedy to the point of stupid. Coming up close enough to take treats right form your hands. Luckily, Wilbur is more interested in cleaning the soup cups than making a meal of the locals.
After a little rest and considering my pain levels for a while, we reluctantly decide to take the same route back along the river rather than exploring one of the alternate path on slightly less friendly terrain. I always fell like i'm letting people down when I have to tap out or adjust plans for my own reasons and often push myself more then I probably should to not disappoint others (this ill go into further another time). Luckily, Sam and Joe are bloody lovely and fully understanding of my situation so are happy to keep to my pace for the rest of the now casual stroll along the river.
Walking a river pass like this can feel like a whole different world. With its high sides bearing down, you can begin to feel quite closed in. Not here though, the gorge stays reasonably wide and steep sides slope wide towards the sky. The fast moving water help to give a sense of space and freedom and the dappled light reflects off the water illuminating the narrow shaded areas.
On the way to Milldale we had been lucky enough to see a Heron up on a high rock pillar waiting to fish below and as we start making our walk back along the track we are treated to the sight of it flying back up the valley with a fish in its beak. Seems we weren't the only ones to pick a great lunch spot today.
Even though we are technically just walking the same path backwards everything looks so different and seems to take half the time despite moving slower. At the top of the steep steps we are passed by the most unusual sight, two men riding the trail on unicycles… yes, unicycles! I can’t help but worry as they are not wearing helmets or pads and non of us fancy having to explain to search and rescue just how they fell to their certain doom.
As we approach the infamous stepping stones we are faced with a small conundrum. How to cross with Wilbur. He’s too big and wriggly to carry and we are more than aware how much he hates slippery surfaces. So after a little coaxing and refusing to cross on the stones, we have to make the somewhat dubious call to have him swim to the other side. Dan and Eliot cross on the stepping stones first by way of encouragement for him but the current is strong and after one failed attempt he’s not overly convinced. Normally such a strong swimmer I think he’s a little unnerved by how of course he was swept so easily. Eventually after regathering him, Joe and Sam hop across to the other side to help build his bravery. One last try and off he goes, it’s obviously tough going but finally he makes it, ecstatically soaking everyone with a hello.
We are starting to loose light as we make it back to the cars, we really should plan our times a little better in the winter. This isn’t a long route but its full of interesting little changes of terrain. Slate steps, wooden board walks, sheep fields, bridges and caves. Lots of things to keep Eliot Mae chatting and questioning all the way.